Probably, but it’s the good ol’ cost-benefit analysis. It’ll survive so much longer than if it wasn’t protected at at all, but the next-level fire protection that would increases its chances is really expensive.

The biggest initial issue for many is that it’s pretty sedating, but that lessens with time. I slept like the dead for the first three weeks as baclofen is one of the few drugs that increases the frequency and duration of deep sleep. Now I can take 100 milligrams in a day and not feel a thing. I have literally no side effects.

One downside is sudden cessation is hell. If I miss an entire day, my anxiety gradually increases until it’s through the roof until I start taking it again. Two days results in gradually increasing visual hallucinations. All of this completely reverses within an hour of taking a dose. You must taper off this stuff, but doing it isn’t hard at all. Just don’t go cold turkey.

It’s also a medication that people tend not to grow resistant to. It hasn’t lost any effectiveness for me despite having taken 60-80mg/day for almost two decades.

I used to have constant burning throat pain and the taste of stomach contents. Not anymore! It reduces the frequency of transient lower esophageal sphincter (LES) relaxation and increases its resting tone. Here’s a relevant paper for anyone interested:

https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9981648/

Bonus: 20 mg for non-users will halt hiccups but will likely also sedate them pretty hard. 10-20 mg will prevent MDMA hyperthermia.

Hey fellow LPR person! Ever looked into baclofen? It’s an oddball, but it helped me and a friend with our LPR.

That’s exactly what I’d recommend! The contents will crisp long before a quality silicone bag will.

You’d need a ton of silica gel, pounds of it, to capture steam as fast as it is generated. Your best bet would be a water tight, temperature resistant container like silicone bags for documents. I’d recommend a properly fireproof safe (read: $$$) or planning for potential losses for anything larger.

Keep in mind that many “fireproof” safes misrepresent their capabilities and the fireproofing itself can severely damage or destroy safe contents in a fire.

Tl;dr: the contents slow cook and soak in a mixture of water and whatever else was present for hours to days. Depending on the severity and duration of the fire, plastics will melt, metals will tarnish, and unprotected paper, wood, and similar contents will be destroyed.

Most more affordable safes are fireproofed via a layer of drywall material. Drywall is composed of gypsum, otherwise known as calcium sulfate dihydrate: CaSO₄·2H₂O .

The fireproofing doesn’t come from any direct insulating properties but the hydration of the gypsum. When exposed to enough heat, the water bound to calcium sulfate begins to unbind and boil out. The interior of the safe will remain at 100°C or less as the external heat energy from the fire is absorbed by this dehydration/phase change process, releasing water as steam.

This turns your safe into a big steamer/(low) pressure cooker. The safe boils during the fire, then sits and “cooks” for hours afterwards as the area cools down. The safe keypad will be inoperative, so you’ll be reliant on the backup key working. If that mechanism is damaged, the manufacturer or a locksmith will need to open it. No matter what, the contents will remain in a hot, damp environment for hours to days.

They do: you! Run for local office and help infuse some vitality back into a tired, corrupt political system.

Dammit, my fence picket didn’t even get cold!

Appreciate you linking in your blog post. I’ve been on the fence about Kagi and you bring up a lot of good points informed by sources I’m unlikely to delve into.